BSODing like a mofo lately.... tools to scan hard disk?

[dad61]

It's the SATA cable

[Tinbuk3]

WD makes a data lifegaurd utily for WD drives.
Download it free at:

http://www.wdc.com/en/

Look under support.

Im guessing its your drive they tend to last a little longer than the warranty's so I go with the black addition for mine.
In fact Im at this time writeing 0's to 2.5 WD back to use as a systems drive.
I hear because they are smaller they are faster and i want to see for myself what the difference will be if any plus I needed a backup drive for the old game rig anyway.

[laserjobs]

It sounds like either the hard drive cable is not plugged in properly, gone bad or the hard drive controller has failed.

[moefugger]

Also be sure the power supply is not having problems. That many times will show up as HD troubles and you did say it was all dusty and cleaning it seemed to help some.
Make sure the fan is running strong.
Does it have more troubles after it has been running for a bit (warmed up)or does it screw up even after it has been turned off for a while?.
After swapping the SATA cables and ports to be sure of them, get another HD.
Back up the suspect one.
If it fails then many times that will be that, hope you did not need the info on it.
Even if it is the Power supply the HD may have been damaged. Remember they do not heal after a problem is repaired.

[repost]

Originally Posted by repost

chkdisk /r ?

i forget how you specify partitions. might be under chkdisk /h

sorry man

1) its chkdsk

2) help is chkdsk /?

im rusty

[ERiC_DrAyViN]

Originally Posted by dad61

It's the SATA cable

I've changed the SATA cable, 2 days now with no BSODs, we'll see how it goes. I hope i didn't do too much damage to my disk I'm getting another 2 HDDs anyway so I can back everything up.

Originally Posted by moefugger

Even if it is the Power supply the HD may have been damaged. Remember they do not heal after a problem is repaired.

I didn't actually knopw that. Thanks. When I first built the pc in 2008 the PSU was faulty and I got the Click of Death on my hardrive for a few days but then I RMA'd that pos psu and got a replacement and it was fine. These noobs selling me dodgy goods and potentially fucking up my hardware pisses me right off!

Even tho nothing seems very wrong. I know HDD Sentinal did give me problem communicating with the drive even with the new SATA cable so there is something weird there anyway. So fingers crossed.

Thanks guys.

[Tinbuk3]

Update: 2.5 drive did score equal to the 3.5 drive however in real time eyes on lag was noticeable on the 2.5 during gaming.
It will make a good backup drive but gaming is out.
Now .. this 2.5 is sata 3.0 I have yet to test the 6.0.
However my 750 is a 6.0 and the 640 a 3.0 and the 640 performed better than the 2.5 as well in gaming.
Conclusions: If you plan to game use the 6.0 sata and if you cant, use the 3.5 drive over the 2.5.

Only an observation gents lets not get started on BMs.
They do little for me in real time.

[moefugger]

When you do get it sorted out try to set your SATA drive in AHCI mode.
Google it for more info.
It allows the SATA drive to do it's thing better. Otherwise it will be like a souped up IDE drive.
By the way I am a commercial life safety, access controls, intrusion and CCTV electronics repairman and programmer. With a bunch more credentials.

[Wankzilla]

IF ANY ADMINS SEE THIS I CANNOT MAKE NEW POSTS!!! ... Also, your contact us link at the bottom apparently goes no-where because no-ones helped me yet... Very hard to get things fixed on a website when you can't make new posts and the chat feature has NO staff in it ever and the contact us link is borked. So uh.. if anyone reads this, help a brother out!! Also.. To try and help, see below.

You need the error code otherwise what you're trying may or may not make a difference. It's sorta like throwing an air hose at a tire and expecting it to get in the nozzle and fill up the tire. Okay retarded analogy but the point is, you need that error code. I know you think there's a bunch of different ones but there's only ONE that matters. In the bottom left corner of the blue screen (wall of white text) you'll see one long line of numbers. It looks like this:

0x000000xx (0x000000xx, 0x000000xx, xxxxxxxx, etc.)

The only number that matters here is the very first one the one outside of the ( )
basically it'll always be 0x0000xxxx the last 4 or 2 digits if the rest are 0's are the ones you need. Everything else on that page is useless except maybe some stuff at the top that might get into it a little more but usually that number will be enough to tell what's really wrong. Grab that, post it here and go from there.

Also, HD Tune is a great utility for checking hard drives, way better than most manufacturer hdd scanners. Especially the pro version. I'll send it to you if you get an admin to fix my new post problem +D