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Old 01-30-2017, 10:08 PM   #21
moefugger
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Went to paint finish and insignia school in the Navy and painted many aircraft.
Seems you got it cleaned up good and that paint is supposed to be OK with aluminum.
Remember to spray a very thin layer.
Let it dry according to directions on the can before paining again.
Temperature is a big factor.
Being that you are not using a gun but a simple spray can...
You should still see through the paint on the first layer.
Then hit it again real thin, it is fine to still see through here and there using a spray paint can.
It will take several coats, you must have patience on a more difficult application like that scope.
Mostly just spray and go works but that one seems like you need to go slow.
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Old 01-31-2017, 02:35 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan123 View Post
I'm no expert mate but I've done a lot over the years. It does sound like a solvent in the paint is picking up on edges of the underlying coats, remaining paints on the piece.
Using an aerosol? I'd distance the nozzle about 18 - 24" away and pass over the object quickly. Build up many layers almost like overspray. This will give a rough finish but once you've built it up, rub back with something like a 1600g wet and dry paper, using it wet. Be careful not to go all the way through the paint buildup, you'll be back to square 1. Then give a slightly wet coat to give a uniform finish.
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Originally Posted by Tinbuk3 View Post
Yeah a fine mist when painting and back off, let the rest run together.
Used to make the same mistake painting cars.
Did what u guys advised yesterday. Checked the parts this morning, and...
It worked! No bubbles at all!
Is rough and dull, not glossy. Looks like overspray more than a full coat.
So I guess I gotta put a few more thin coats down after a light rubbing.
Then put a normal coat last.......right?

Thanks guys for the help, and all the others too.

Except PP! Wanting me to give up my beer! Sheeeeesh!

This keeps me on schedule, mostly.
I should have the pier and head unit assembled by Monday next.
If I don't screw something else up.
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Old 01-31-2017, 03:25 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by BurntBulb View Post
Did what u guys advised yesterday. Checked the parts this morning, and...
It worked! No bubbles at all!
Is rough and dull, not glossy. Looks like overspray more than a full coat.
So I guess I gotta put a few more thin coats down after a light rubbing.
Then put a normal coat last.......right?

Thanks guys for the help, and all the others too.

Except PP! Wanting me to give up my beer! Sheeeeesh!

This keeps me on schedule, mostly.
I should have the pier and head unit assembled by Monday next.
If I don't screw something else up.
Well done mate.
Yup, give her a few more dryish coats before going heavier, The paint you've put down will almost be porous and so, it will absorb solvent from a wet coat readily. Flattening gently after applying more coats will almost seal it as well as giving a flatter surface for a more uniform finish with the topcoat.
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Old 01-31-2017, 03:51 PM   #24
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Your certainly welcome .. glad I could offer a helpful perspective.
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Old 01-31-2017, 08:37 PM   #25
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Never strip the original paint of an antique, loses the patina what every collector wants in a piece.

May I suggest renaissance wax for future projects.

Even an old mirror that's lost over 70% of its mirror film is highly sort after rather than one that's been fully restored.

Regards to your blooming effect you're getting its due to the seam of the metal, the raw edges of the paint aren't as thick as the main body, I'd suggest using a hair dryer to heat the metal up prior to priming, same with the top coat, are you sure the original paint was lead based and not acrylic?

I'd use acrylic and oven bake it on a low heat for 45 mins each coat rub down with fine wire wool between coats Finish with a satin lacquer. Polish with Renaissance wax.
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Old 01-31-2017, 10:26 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yorkie View Post
Never strip the original paint of an antique, loses the patina what every collector wants in a piece.

May I suggest renaissance wax for future projects.

Even an old mirror that's lost over 70% of its mirror film is highly sort after rather than one that's been fully restored.

Regards to your blooming effect you're getting its due to the seam of the metal, the raw edges of the paint aren't as thick as the main body, I'd suggest using a hair dryer to heat the metal up prior to priming, same with the top coat, are you sure the original paint was lead based and not acrylic?

I'd use acrylic and oven bake it on a low heat for 45 mins each coat rub down with fine wire wool between coats Finish with a satin lacquer. Polish with Renaissance wax.
This is a scientific instrument that is being restored to a functional and like new condition. No use to anybody just sitting there looking pretty and old.
And the size of the thing! At full elevation, as tall as I am, I have to have a small ladder to reach the eye piece. That's a little big to get on my shelves! LOL

As for the optics, both mirrors have to be pristine. The main objective mirror was sent off to a master telescope optician. Stripped, reground and polished and a new high tech polymer metal reflective coating fused on. Cost me a pretty penny too! But it was worth it.

To give you an idea of what I'm working on, go here, if you can...

http://cave-astrola.com/index.html

Take a look at the pages 'telescopes' or 'restorations', look for almost any 10" F/6 Model "C" Deluxe transportable.
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Old 02-01-2017, 01:59 AM   #27
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Ah paint fumes and beer .. I bet even tater is making sense right about now.
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Old 02-01-2017, 03:58 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinbuk3 View Post
Ah paint fumes and beer .. I bet even tater is making sense right about now.
Tater?
Tater tots!
I got the munchies.
Pizza!
More beer.

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Last edited by BurntBulb; 02-01-2017 at 01:18 PM.
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:26 PM   #29
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Put a 3rd and 4th coat on the 4 parts today. The paint is sticking real good now, and is getting glossy. A few areas not real shinny, looking like overspray, but I'll not then out tomorrow, while I paint up the casings I got back from the shop today.
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Old 02-02-2017, 11:24 PM   #30
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Calipered the bearing alignments to the casings this morning.
The parallel and diagonal showed a nominative of 1/100th mm. Not bad!
A little scaring on the inside of the casings, but that's normal when u press a steel bearing in a cast aluminum casing. at least the seats were still smooth and tight.
Gave each inside of the casings a fluorocarbon wash, then with a plastic swab, put some Lithium grease on each bearing, and worked it in.

Polishing the shafts are taking longer than I thought. Got them cut down with a 800 grits water emory. but a lot of pits are still showing. some of these pits look deep too.
Thinking about replacing them with stainless steel.
Or give them an acid bath and chrome them.

My schedule has taken a hit.
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